5 Skincare Essentials I Actually Use as a Dermatologist — and the Sixth Is the Most Powerful
You do not need to use all five together. Choose the active based on the problem you want to treat.
Skincare · 7 min read · September 24, 2026
5 Skincare Essentials I Actually Use as a Dermatologist — and the Sixth Is the Most Powerful
You do not need to use all five together.
Choose the active based on the problem you want to treat.
01 — Tretinoin
For example: Acretin
Dr. Yousef’s score
9.5 / 10
Top 3 uses
1. Acne and clogged pores
2. Fine lines and photoaging
3. Improving skin texture and unevenness
Best way to use it
🌙 Evening
Start 2–3 nights per week.
Use a pea-sized amount for the entire face on dry skin. Once the skin is fully dry, you can follow with a suitable moisturizer.
Increase frequency gradually according to your skin’s tolerance.
Most important note
Do not start several strong exfoliants at the same time.
Avoid during pregnancy and when planning pregnancy.
02 — Sunscreen
Dr. Yousef’s score
10 / 10
Top 3 uses
1. Preventing photoaging
2. Helping prevent worsening of pigmentation and melasma
3. Protecting results while using active ingredients
Best way to use it
☀️ Every morning
Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen with:
At least SPF 50
Apply an adequate amount to the face and neck.
If you are outdoors:
Reapply about every two hours, and after swimming or heavy sweating.
Most important note
If you do not use sunscreen, you will not get the full benefit from even the strongest serum in the world.
03 — Vitamin C
Dr. Yousef’s score
7.5 / 10
Top 3 uses
1. Dullness and radiance
2. Uneven tone and mild pigmentation
3. Supporting antioxidant protection against photoaging
Best way to use it
☀️ Morning
After cleansing and before sunscreen.
If you choose pure L-ascorbic acid:
10–15% is a practical starting range for many people who tolerate it.
Then:
Cleanser → Vitamin C → Sunscreen
Most important note
Not every product labeled Vitamin C is automatically a good product.
Formulation and stability matter more than simply seeing the words Vitamin C on the package.
04 — Azelaic Acid
For example: Skinoren
Dr. Yousef’s score
8.5 / 10
Top 3 uses
1. Acne
2. Post-acne marks and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
3. Redness and rosacea in appropriate patients
Best way to use it
It can be used in the morning or evening.
If you are new to it:
Start once daily, preferably in the evening.
Then increase according to the formulation and your skin’s tolerance.
Common medical-strength concentrations:
15–20%
Using it with tretinoin?
A simple way to start:
☀️ Azelaic acid in the morning
🌙 Tretinoin in the evening
Most important note
It is one of the most useful options when someone has:
Acne + dark marks after breakouts.
05 — Glycolic Acid
Dr. Yousef’s score
7 / 10
Top 3 uses
1. Rough or uneven skin texture
2. Dullness
3. Superficial pigmentation and uneven tone
Best way to use it
🌙 Evening
For home use:
Start with a lower concentration such as 5–10%.
Begin once or twice per week, then increase according to tolerance.
If you also use tretinoin:
At the beginning, do not use both on the same night.
Example:
Monday → Tretinoin
Wednesday → Glycolic acid
Friday → Tretinoin
Most important note
Glycolic acid does not need to be used every day to work.
More exfoliation can mean more irritation, not better results.
06 — Microneedling
Dr. Yousef’s score
10 / 10
Top 3 uses
1. Atrophic acne scars
2. Improving irregular skin texture
3. Signs of photoaging and fine lines
Best way to use it
This is a procedure rather than part of a daily skincare routine, and home use requires caution.
It is performed in spaced sessions. Needle depth and the number of sessions depend on:
The concern being treated
The type of scar
Skin tone
The thickness of the treatment area
Most important note
Not all acne scars respond in the same way.
If you want to choose quickly
Acne + clogged pores
→ Tretinoin
Daily prevention + pigmentation
→ Sunscreen
Radiance + antioxidant support
→ Vitamin C
Acne + dark marks
→ Azelaic Acid
Rough texture + dullness
→ Glycolic Acid
Atrophic acne scars
→ Microneedling
Medical References
American Academy of Dermatology — Guidelines of Care for the Management of Acne Vulgaris, 2024.
American Academy of Dermatology — Sunscreen Application Recommendations.
Correia G, Magina S. Efficacy of Topical Vitamin C in Melasma and Photoaging: A Systematic Review, 2023.
Comparative Efficacy of Topical Interventions for Facial Photoaging: Network Meta-analysis.
Li H, Jia B, Zhang X. Microneedling for Acne Scars: Network Meta-analysis of Randomized Controlled Trials, 2024.
Medical review
This guide was written and medically reviewed by Dr. Yousef Abo Zarad, a German board-certified specialist in Dermatology and Venereology.